ARTICLES IV
AnimalHouseCo.com
DOGGIE SOCIALIZATION AH & Co EDITOR'S NOTE: Over the years, we at Animal House have come to realize many things about human understanding and dogs. Since the opening of the Lower Allen Dog Park, one area of particular interest is the term 'socialization'. Obviously most individuals who bring their dog(s) to Doggie Daycare understand the meaning and importance of socialization. It's some of the 'other' people who don't have a clue. If you know some one who could benefit from this excellent article, please attempt to educate by supplying them a copy. Oft times at the Animal House, when a person is asked if their dog is socialized, more people than you can image respond, "Yes, he plays with the neighbor's dog all the time." As you will note in this article and any of the links at the end of the article, doggie socialization is MUCH MORE than 'being able to play with the dog next door'. Also, notice that the very first sentence makes perhaps the most important point of the article: Socialization is a LIFELONG process. SOCIALIZATION: THE KEY TO A CONFIDENT DOG This article has been taken from the following web site: Humane Society of the Silicon Valley WHAT IS SOCIALIZATION? Socialization is a lifelong process that will happen to your dog, if you provide plenty of opportunities for it. It is literally introducing your dog to as many different environments as possible. Dogs that are well socialized are happy, secure, confident dogs who are healthier because of a general reduction in stress. A well socialized dog will readily interact with all types of people and will easily play with other dogs, as well. He is not afraid of most objects and may be cautious about certain things, like meeting a horse face to face for the first time, but he does not panic and he recovers quite quickly if startled. Think of your puppy or your older unsocialized dog as a visitor from another planet does. They have no idea what a car is for, what a vacuum does, why this man sounds different and looks different than this lady over here. It is up to your to introduce this "visitor" to the human way of life in such away that instills confidence in them. You are going to interpret the human world for your dog. WHEN CAN I START THIS SOCIALIZATION? NOW! Socialization is most critical in puppies between the ages of 3 weeks and 14 weeks. This is the time when experiences are new. They exert a maximum and long-lasting effect on shaping your dog's future personality and temperament. Your puppy needs lots of positive exposure to as many different people, places, things, noises, and smells as you can muster. The key word here is POSITIVE exposure. So the sooner you start on socializing your puppy the better adjusted he will be when he grows up. Start to use the jolly routine described below to start this important process of socialization. So it is important for puppies to start socializing early ... but I have an older dog that is fearful. Will this socialization help him too? YES! Even older dogs that did not get the proper amount of socialization needed when they were puppies can benefit by a proper socialization strategy. It will take an older dog longer to become confident and if he has had some terrible fright in his puppyhood, he may never overcome it but he can be helped with active, positive socialization. You are going to use the same techniques described below for your older dog as well as your puppy. THE JOLLY ROUTINE Your dog sees the world through your attitude. So if you act happy and at ease, your dog will interpret the world as Doggie Disneyland. If you act scared, nervous and hesitant about certain situations, people, objects or noises then that transfers right down the leash to your dog and he becomes anxious and upset. An example of this would be bringing your dog to the vet. Most dogs are very nervous in this situation. The vet's office smells strange, has lots of strange noises and has people who are dressed differently than anyone else they've seen. Plus every time Fido goes to this awful place, he has something unpleasant happen to him! Most people don't like going to the vet's as well; needles make us nervous! So here is Fido, shaking and hiding under your chair. You reach under a pet Fido and say "IT'S OK" in a soothing tone of voice. What has just happened is that you have reinforced fearful behavior in your dog by giving him attention (petting) and talking in a soothing tone of voice to him. What your dog has learned to do is to act nervous, shake and hide because then Mum pets me. Your dog actually thinks he is doing the right thing, by acting scared, because your reaction to him told him so! Your dog then starts to act even more nervous each time you go to the vet's. Instead, you should act happy and confident to help Fido overcome his fears. Follow the guidelines below to help you learn the Jolly Routine. BASIC GUIDELINES FOR SOCIALIZING YOUR DOG EASING YOUR DOG'S FEAR AND DEALING WITH DIFFERENT KINDS OF FEAR If he is very leery put a special treat near the ball and let him eat it. When he is calmly eating a treat at one distance from the ball, then put the treat a step closer and repeat the process. Keep repeating until your dog will eat a cookie right off the top of it or right next to it. For some dogs, the above process may take only ten minutes. For others it may be a couple of days. The main thing is to let the dog tell you when he's ready to move closer to the ball and that will be when he is calmly eating a treat at a certain distance from the ball. Once your dog is calmly approaching the ball, then you can add movement all the while you do the Jolly Routine. Use this approach on all foreign objects that our dog seems fearful of. If you acquire a tape of the noise your dog is afraid of, first play it at a volume level that you would lay as if you had a baby sleeping in the next room. Make sure you are with your dog during the first stages of socializing him to this scary sound. When you dog appears relaxed at this level, up the volume by one-half a level. So if you started on level 2 then go only to 2 ½. Your dog will tell you when he is ready to go tot he next volume level, by again acting relaxed. If at any time he becomes frightened, remember to do the Jolly Routine, and lower the volume back down to the previous level where he was relaxed. Frequent playing with your dog during the scary noise will lessen its impact upon him and in fact, get him to associate something good with that awful noise! If you are recreating the noise yourself, first make sure your dog is not afraid of the object itself, like the vacuum. Use the Jolly Routine and use food described above to acquaint him with the object in a far room so the noise is very distant and then play ball or practice some obedience work with your dog in the opposite room. Once he is relaxed, put the vacuum in a closer room. At this point you are not moving the object. Work in a step like manner until your dog can be in the same room as the object, in this case the vacuum, with it turned on and him playing around it or going to get a treat placed on or near it. Next, you may actually start to vacuum slowly, again remembering to use the Jolly Routine if he appears to be afraid. Any combination of people you can possibly imagine, you want to expose our dog to using the Jolly Routine. Simply have the person you are introducing your dog to, feed your dog a cookie! What a wonderful way for Fido to learn that people are not scary and they carry cookies too! Please make sure that if your dog is excited about meeting someone new, that you have Fido sit before his is fed. That way he is learning good habits, like sitting before getting a treat, as well as being socialized. If your dog is very fearful of someone, do not drag him toward the "three headed dragon." You will only make your dog's fear worse. Just have that "dragon" stand still and be quiet while you leave a trail of cookies toward them. When your dog is comfortable going up to the person, then have the "dragon" feed him a cookie. If your dog will not approach their h and, have your "dragon" drop the cookie at their feet for your dog to eat. All the while you are acting JOLLY to assist your dog in gaining confidence. Once your dog easily takes a cookie dropped at the "dragon's" feet, than have the person crouch down. Let your dog approach and eventually have your dog take a cookie from their hand. NEVER AT ANY TIME SHOULD YOU PUSH OR PULL YOUR DOG TOWARD A PERSON THEY ARE AFRAID OF. YOUR DOG MAY BE SO FEARFUL THAT HE MAY FEEL THAT HE HAS NO CHOICE BUT TO BITE THEM TO KEEP THEM AWAY FROM THEM. For more info, visit the following website:
top Written by Micky Niego, ASPCA, as found in the petfinder.com Library The dog that you adopt from the shelter may be a rescued stray or a dog that someone has voluntarily surrendered for adoption. Whether he was born in the bushes behind the laundromat or an adolescent abandoned on the streets by his once-upon-a-time owner, the streetwise stray can be a real challenge to incorporate into your life. The famous "he followed me home, can I keep him, Mom?" canine is a special animal that needs time and space, patience and understanding. This is a dog that has had to compete to stay alive; he's fought for food, scrambled for shelter. His reliance on his inborn canine savvy kept him alive on the streets long enough to be rescued and adopted by you. Now you've comitted yourself to him, it becomes a crash course in Canine Socialization and Human Interaction 101. If he's street-born, chances are he's never heard a toilet flush or seen a vacuum cleaner in action. He'll gobble up his food, throwing furtive glances left and right. The acoustics of the indoor environment may make him anxious. Edgy, he'll whine and pace. A sudden sound and he'll either bolt upright ready for action or slither along behind you. Be reasonable in your expectations. Be sensitive. It's culture shock, pure and simple. Put yourself in his shoes. Just imagine that you've been snatched away from home and suddenly find yourself in an aboriginal outback community. No language or gestures in common. Communication is by trial and error. Be patient and supportive. You'll succeed. The stray that was "previously owned" enters your home with a completely different set of baggage. Leashes, hands, rolled up newspapers and magazines, feet, chairs and sticks are just some of the pieces of" training equipment" that may have been used on this dog. Words like "come here" and "lie down" may bring forth a reaction other than the one you expected. Or maybe he led a sheltered life and was never socialized to children or sidewalk activity. This dog may be the product of a never-ending series of scrambled communications and unreal expectations. As an adolescent or adult dog, he's already formed his opinion regarding humans. Be prepared to meet with confusion, reluctance and resistance as you retrain this fellow. He may flinch when you reach to pet him, make a sudden move or raise your voice. But don't let yourself be held hostage by thoughts of past cruelties and abuse. Don't treat him like a victim. The key here is confidence. Build his with consistent training and you'll turn him around. The dog that has been voluntarily surrendered for adoption may have somehow let someone down. Not housebroken, too active, too noisy, destructive when left alone, too friendly. Or maybe he's a victim of circumstance. Divorce, an owner who died, is ill or was arrested. A newborn who is allergic. Whatever the the familiar smells that make him feel good all over. He misses them, he mourns them. His pack, his family ... where are they? When you get him home, he's confused and disoriented. Sights and sounds are simultaneously familiar and unfamiliar; things are jumbled up. He jumps on the couch and bed, he drinks from the toilet bowl, barks at the phone and makes wild lunges at strangers. In another life, these behaviors may have been encouraged or maybe just not discouraged. Don't worry; he'll catch on. He'll get past it all. He'll become your dog. Taking on the responsibility of a dog with a past is hard work. At first, it may seem overwhelming. Most of the problem behavior you'll encounter is an expression of the dog's inability to cope with the demands of your personality and lifestyle. Make sure you and he are indeed suited for each other; that you can meet his needs for activity and companionship according to his breed type. Things may proceed slowly; you'll hit frustrating learning plateaus. But if you're committed you'll get there. Remember that the basic period of adjustment can be anywhere from six to twelve weeks. Go into this with your eyes open... and then stand back and marvel at the transformation. . . it will knock your socks off! top DOG FIGHTS There are many reasons why dogs fight: dominance, aggression, objects such as toys, food or people, frenzy situations, distress or fear, etc. The breed or gender of the dog is no guarantee although, as a general rule of thumb, females usually fight females, and males usually fight males. All dogs don't (and won't) get along. Dogs can be just like people in that they may just not like a particular dog ... no reason, "I just don't like you." And other dogs may hold a grudge (just like some people do). The easiest way to handle a dog fight is to prevent it. I cannot stress this enough! Learn to read dog language and posture. Immediately separate dogs who project fighting posture. And separate means to remove both dogs from the area. A 'time out' or 'cooling off' period may be in order. When taking my dogs for a walk, I carry a retractable, metal police baton tucked in the back pocket of my jeans. With the flip of a wrist, it becomes full length. The baton is about 6" closed and about 17" extended. If a dog is loose, I do not hesitate to 'whip out' my baton and assume a fighting stance until the dog has passed. You are supposed to be the alpha here ... you are supposed to be the one in charge - act like it. I do not allow dogs on a leash to approach my dogs either (unless I know the dog). I tell the owner that my dog does not like others (which is not true). To be perfectly honest with you, it is not the approaching dog I worry about, it's the owner controlling (or not controlling) that dog. You may think this a bit overreacting but anyone who has ever seen a dog fight will be leary, (I did not say afraid, I said leary) of a strange dog approaching. There may be a time, however, when you find yourself witness to a dog fight. What do you do? I came upon an article written by Ed Frawley, Leerburg Kennels, Menomonie, WI. Please take the time to read it ... it may save you or your dogs life some day. I also encourage everyone to check out the source of the article Leerburg Kennels, How To Break-Up a Dog Fight Without Getting Hurt.. The site contains many pictures of dog bites and more information on the subject.
HOW TO BREAK UP A DOG FIGHT WITHOUT GETTING HURT. By Ed Frawley, Leerburg Kennel Dogfights are a very dangerous thing to try and break up alone. You should never rush in and try and grab the dogs to pull them apart. They are in high "fight drive" and are not thinking clearly when fighting. If someone grabs them they will bite without even thinking about who or what they are biting. This is how your loving pet can bite the living crap out of you in about a second and a half. In reality it probably doesn't even know it's you that it's biting. I compare it to a bar fight. If a person comes up behind 2 guys fighting and just reaches out and grabs the shoulder of one of the combatants most of the time the fighter is going to turn and throw a punch without even looking at who or what he is hitting. This is because his adrenaline in pumping and he is in "fight drive". The safest way to break up a dogfight requires 2 people. Each person grabs the back feet of one of the dogs. The dog is picked up like a wheelbarrow. With the legs up, both dogs are then pulled apart. Once they break apart, it is critical that the people do not release the dogs or the fight will begin again. They need to start turning in a circle, or slowly swinging the dogs in a circle while they back away from the other dog. This stops the dog from curling and coming back and biting the person holding their legs. By circling the dog, the dog has to sidestep with its front feet or it will fall on its chin. As long as you slowly continue to back and circle, the dog cannot do any damage to you. To insure that the fight will not begin all over again when you release the dogs, one of the dogs needs to be dragged into an enclosure (i.e. a kennel, the garage, another room) before the dog is released. If they do not do this, the dogs will often charge back and start fighting again. The worst case scenario is that you are alone when a serious fight breaks out. There are a couple things that you must keep in mind:
People talk about using cattle prods or shock collars to break up 2 pets that fight. I can tell you that many times this is not going to work. The electric cattle prod or electric collar will only put the dogs into higher fight drive. When they are shocked they will turn and bite the prod, or when they are shocked they will think the other dog is causing the pain and they will fight harder. An electric collar is best used in conditioning training, but not during an actual dogfight. I had a friend tell me that using a stun gun works. Not to actually shock the dog, but just to hold it in your hand and allow it to snap. The sound of the electrical snap is supposed to cause the dogs to stop fighting. I will muzzle 2 of my dogs and let them go at it to see if this works. I will be surprised if it works on 2 really strong dogs going after each other. In regard to breaking up a fight by yourself, the only way I would recommend that a novice try's this is with Pepper Spray. Get close enough that the spray comes in direct contact with the dog's eyes and nose. Give it a good one-second spray and then step back. Make damn sure you are up wind of the spray or you will disable yourself. Unless you have experienced pepper spray you will have a tendency to under estimate how strong it is when it gets into your eyes and nose. A point I would like to make is that if you see two dogs out there squaring off through body posturing (i.e. one dog with stiff legs and tail straight up in the air putting his head over the shoulders of the other to show dominance) do not run out there screaming "NO NO NO!!!!" Most of the time this is going to trigger the fight. A lot of times dogs will posture and one will give in and back away. They settle their dominance issue without a battle. I NEVER, NEVER, NEVER recommend testing this situation. It's not worth the fight that erupts if you are wrong. But I can tell you of a couple of situations at my kennel where I went outside and 2 males were loose that I would have thought would fight to the death. Obviously they determined that today is not the day to argue. I also know that had I gone out screaming before they settled it themselves there would have been a nasty fight. AH & Co EDITOR'S NOTE: On the Leerburg website, Mr. Frawley entertains comments (and questions) sent in by readers. There are two especially noteworthy comments as they pertain to this article. The first, a woman who raises and shows Staffordshire Terriers suggests using smelling salts for two dogs who are in a lock-up. (Some breeds are especially prone to locking their jaw on the opponent.) The second comment is by a reader who suggests using a CO2 fire extinguisher. "A combination of sound and the cold shot alone would be enough to break up the fight but when you add the effects of oxygen depravation, the results are breathtaking." For more info, visit the following website:
top DIRECTSTOP® ANIMAL-ATTACK DETERRENT SPRAY, BY PREMIER DirectStop is a highly effective, safe, and humane way to deter aggressive animals. It is effective on dogs, cats, venomous snakes, raccoons, squirrels, opossums, etc. (Not effective on bears.) DirectStop's revolutionary citronella formula interrupts attacks by surprising and distracting animals with a powerful and unusual scent, giving the user valuable time to move to a safe place. DirectStop is highly effective for dealing with low to medium level aggression, both inter-dog and dog-to-human. Great to have at arms reach in shelters, training classes, kennels, or veterinary offices. And easily fits into the pockets of joggers, dog walkers, and family members who enjoy taking strolls around the neighborhood. When tested with trained attack dogs, this citronella formula was found to be just as effective as 10% pepper spray, without the harmful side effects. Unlike pepper spray, DirectStop does not cause pain, therefore, it doesn't heighten aggression. Plus, it won't injure the user or onlookers if spray is accidentally 'blown back' into the eyes. Instruction for use: Spray towards the animal's nose. The spray is formulated to minimize eye irritation. Each can contains approximately 12 one-second sprays with a range of up to 10 feet. Active ingredients: Citronella Oil 1%. Inactive Ingredients: Ethanol, Propylene glycol, and CO2 used as a propellant. This item can be purchased at either our Sporting Hill Road store or ebay location. top BLOAT The idea for this article came from Bailey's human brother, David. Bailey had been rushed to the vet a few months ago and diagnosed with Bloat. Bailey survived his brush with death and it is now David's wish to educate people on this dreaded and underestimated malady. Animal House & Co is jumping on his bandwagon to help. Many thanks to David, and well wishes to Bailey (and family) for a long and happy life. Since I was unable to find one article that 'said it all', the following is a compilation of information taken from the links below and these two articles: The technical name for bloat is "Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus" ("GDV"). Dilatation means that the stomach is distended with air, but it is located in the abdomen in its correct place. Volvulus means that the distention is associated with a twisting of the stomach on its longitudinal axis. Bloating of the stomach is often related to swallowed air (although food and fluid can also be present). It usually happens when there's an abnormal accumulation of air, fluid, and/or foam in the stomach ("gastric dilatation"). Stress can also be a contributing factor. Bloat can occur with or without "volvulus" (twisting). As the stomach swells, it may rotate 90° to 360°, twisting between its fixed attachments at the esophagus (food tube) and at the duodenum (the upper intestine). The twisting stomach traps air, food, and water in the stomach. The bloated stomach obstructs veins in the abdomen, leading to low blood pressure, shock, and damage to internal organs. The combined effect can quickly kill a dog. Bloat is a very serious health risk for many dogs, yet many dog owners know very little about it. It is the second leading killer of dogs after cancer. It is frequently reported that deep-chested dogs, such as German Shepherds, Great Danes, and Dobermans are particularly at risk. This article provides links to information on bloat and summarizes some of the key points found in the sites researched. The information is not intended to replace advice or guidance from veterinarians or other pet care professionals. It is simply being shared as an aid to assist you with your own research on this very serious problem. BREEDS MOST AT RISK Afghan Hound, Airedale Terrier, Akita, Alaskan Malamute, Basset Hound, Bernese Mountain Dog, Borzoi, Bouvier des Flandres, Boxer, Bullmastiff, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Collie, Dachshund, Doberman Pinscher, English Springer Spaniel, Fila Brasileiro, Golden Retriever, Gordon Setter, Great Dane, German Shepherd, German Shorthaired Pointer, Great Pyrenees, Irish Setter, Irish Wolfhound, King Shepherd, Labrador Retriever, Miniature Poodle, Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog, Pekinese, Rottweiler, Samoyed, Shiloh Shepherd, St. Bernard, Standard Poodle, Weimaraner, Wolfhound, Sighthounds, Bloodhounds There is an interesting table concerning dog breeds and risk factors at the following web site: peteducation.com. Based on the findings of a five-year prospective study of bloat at Purdue University, graphs were drawn to help owners of large (50-99 lbs) and giant (>99 lbs) breed dogs estimate their dog's lifetime risk of developing GDV. To calculate your dog's lifetime risk, Perdue has developed a formula which can be found at the following web site: http://www.vet.purdue.edu/epi/clbr.htm. CAUSES OF BLOAT Original theories suggested that it occurred when a dog ate a large meal of dry food and then drank a lot of water. The water caused the dry food to swell. At the same time, the dog was supposed to be engaged in strenuous exercise that included running and jumping. That resulted in the dog's stomach twisting on itself as the heavy organ was jostled about in the abdomen. Although that is the most common explanation given, there is no scientific evidence to support this theory. In most dogs experiencing GDV, the stomach is not excessively full of dry food and the dog has not recently engaged in strenuous exercise. The most current theory is that the stomach's contractions lose their regular rhythm and trap air in the stomach; this can cause the twisting event. However, the sequence of events for most cases defies a good explanation It is thought that the following list may be the primary contributors to bloat:
SYMPTOMS OF BLOAT Typical symptoms often include some (but not necessarily all) of the following. Unfortunately, from the onset of the first symptoms you have very little time (sometimes minutes, sometimes hours) to get immediate medical attention for your dog. Know your dog and know when it's not acting right.
WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE STOMACH IS DISTENDED WITH AIR? The first major life-threatening event that occurs is shock. This occurs because the distended stomach puts pressure on the large veins in the abdomen that carry blood back to the heart. Without proper return of blood, the output of blood from the heart is diminished, and the tissues are deprived of blood and oxygen. The reduced blood output from the heart and the high pressure within the cavity of the stomach cause the stomach wall to be deprived of adequate circulation. If the blood supply is not restored quickly, the wall of the stomach begins to die; the wall may rupture. If volvulus (twisting) occurs, the spleen's blood supply will also be impaired. This organ is attached to the stomach wall and shares some large blood vessels. When the stomach twists, the spleen is also rotated to an abnormal position and its vessels are compressed. When the stomach is distended, digestion stops. This results in the accumulation of toxins that are normally removed from the intestinal tract. These toxins activate several chemicals which cause inflammation, and the toxins are absorbed into circulation. This causes problems with the blood clotting factors so that inappropriate clotting occurs within blood vessels. This is called disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC) and is usually fatal. WHAT CAN BE DONE TO SAVE THE DOG'S LIFE? There are several important steps that must be taken quickly.
WHAT IS THE SURVIVAL RATE? This will largely be determined by the severity of the distention, the degree of shock, how quickly treatment is begun, and the presence of other diseases, especially those involving the heart. Approximately 60% of the dogs will survive if treatment is started reasonably soon after onset of signs. Some dogs may survive the initial treatment and surgery only to have areas of the stomach wall die and slough 2 to 4 days after surgery. These areas may have looked fine during surgery but were deprived of blood long enough to permanently affect the tissue. PREVENTION The most effective means of prevention is gastropexy, the surgical attachment of the stomach to the body wall. This will not prevent dilatation (bloat), but it will prevent volvulus (twisting) in most cases. Various dietary and exercise restrictions have been used, but none of these have proven value. Fortunately, this is not something that is a routine occurrence but it does happen often enough that owners of "deep chested" large breeds should be aware of the potential. The following is a list of suggestions:
LINKS: top Veterinary Extension/Office of Public Engagement University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine An archive of Pet Talk columns is on the Web at http://www.cvm.uiuc.edu/petcolumns/ By Kim Marie Labak Have you ever walked away from a pile your pet has left on public property? Have you gone days, or even weeks, without picking up your pet's piles in the back yard? Many pet owners do not realize that cat and dog feces carry parasitic worms capable of infecting humans. Not only is picking up after your pet hygienic, lawful, and courteous, but it can also help keep the soil free of parasites such as roundworms and hookworms and can help keep humans safe from infections. In addition, keeping pets on a regular worm preventive and practicing good hygiene can help control and prevent the spread of these parasites. Dr. Allan Paul, veterinary parasitologist at the University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine in Urbana, explains that two parasites found in pet poop, roundworms and hookworms, can infect humans through ingestion or skin contact. Both are very common in puppies and kittens. Roundworms can be spread to puppies from their mother before they are born; dormant roundworm larvae in the mother's bloodstream can become activated during pregnancy and cross the placenta to infect the puppies. In fact, according to Dr. Paul, virtually 100 percent of puppies are born with roundworms. Unlike puppies, kittens do not acquire roundworms from their mother in utero, but nursing milk that contains roundworm larvae can infect them. If left untreated, roundworms can migrate in the body to infect vital organs and cause permanent, even fatal, damage, so young animals are usually put on a deworming program at a few weeks of age. Adult dogs and cats can ingest roundworm eggs or larvae from the environment, but don't usually get sick. Rather, the larvae remain throughout the body in the dormant form. Hookworms are another parasite that can be acquired via mother's milk or through direct ingestion. Hookworm larvae can also be absorbed through the skin, causing skin lesions, and may travel through the body to infect the intestines. Once they infect the intestinal tract, they can suck large amounts of blood, causing anemia. Like roundworm infections, hookworm infections can be treated with deworming drugs. If a pet's roundworm or hookworm infection goes untreated, not only can a puppy or kitten develop serious disease, but also the environment can become contaminated with eggs that are excreted with feces and pose a health risk for humans. Roundworm and hookworm infections are as serious for humans as they are for pets. One female roundworm can lay up to 200,000 eggs a day. Dr. Paul explains that these eggs are very resilient, and the only way to effectively destroy them is flame or steam. Indoor kennels can be steam cleaned to reduce contamination. Since chemicals cannot destroy the eggs, contaminated lawns can pose a challenge, especially since the eggs can survive in the soil for many years. Fortunately, roundworm eggs do not become infective until 2 to 3 weeks after leaving the body through feces and only mature to this infective state if environmental conditions are just right. Hookworm eggs, however, become infective only two days after leaving the body, so they too can pose a contamination problem. Humans, like dogs and cats, can acquire roundworms via ingestion, and can contract hookworm infection through ingestion or skin contact. People at higher risk for infection by these parasites include children, especially those who may eat sand or dirt, and people who work with soil and sand that may be contaminated, such as landscapers and plumbers. An effective way to prevent infection is keeping the environment clean. Picking up after your pet promptly when it defecates in public spaces, such as parks, and cleaning feces out of your yard or litter box at least every other day can keep roundworm and hookworm eggs from reaching their infective stage. Keeping children's sandboxes covered when not in use can keep the sand clean and parasite free. In areas where hookworms can be a problem, you can minimize your contact with contaminated soil or sand by wearing shoes and sitting on blanket when relaxing outdoors. Of course, washing hands thoroughly after working or playing outside and before eating can prevent ingestion and spread of parasites as well as other infectious agents like bacteria and viruses. In addition to keeping the environment clean, Dr. Paul suggests some simple steps to keep your pet from acquiring active infections. Standard deworming drugs can decrease worms in a puppy or kitten and decrease shedding of eggs in feces by up to 100 percent. A veterinarian should examine a pet's stool sample every 6 to 12 months, when the pet gets its routine veterinary examination. Monthly drugs, taken orally or applied topically, can prevent roundworm and hookworm infections, and some monthly heartworm treatments include these preventives. Keeping dogs in a fenced yard and cats indoors has numerous health benefits, since animals allowed to roam naturally run a higher risk of getting parasites and other infectious illness. For more information about roundworms and hookworms visit the Centers for Disease Control Web site about the connection between pet health and human health at http://www.cdc.gov/healthypets/. LINKS: top This article taken from the ASPCA News Alert. Based on recent data, the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) continues to caution canine caretakers that raisins and grapes may be toxic to some dogs. From April 2003 to April 2004, the Center managed 140 related cases, each involving one or more dogs who ingested varying amounts of raisins or grapes. Take the case of two-year-old Penny, Sarah Wright's Australian shepherd/Saint Bernard mix. Earlier this year, Penny ate approximately a cup of raisins. "She vomited later that same day," recalls Sarah. "I took her in to be evaluated by our local veterinarian, who felt that she was simply experiencing stomach upset, as the clinic was not aware of the potential for toxicity with raisin ingestion." But a few days later, when Penny didn't improve, the veterinarian ran blood tests and found that she had developed acute renal failure. Despite efforts to save Penny, she passed away. "I want to share this unfortunate loss, so that other dog owners can be educated and avoid having their dogs go through what Penny did," Sarah says. Much is yet to be discovered about the toxic principle in grapes and raisins. It is also not clear if only some canines are susceptible, or if chronic, long-term ingestion can lead to the same effects. "As there are still many unknowns," says the APCC's Dana Farbman, CVT, "we advise not giving grapes or raisins to pets in any amount." The center will continue to monitor this situation, and we will post any updates in ASPCA News Alert as necessary. For more information on how to protect your pet from potentially dangerous substances, please visit APCC online. The ASPCA News Alert is a weekly email Newsletter. To subscribe, visit http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=newsletter. top STUDY SHOWS DOGS ABLE TO SMELL CANCER. By EMMA ROSS LONDON (AP) - It has long been suspected that man's best friend has a special ability to sense when something is wrong with us. Now the first experiment to verify that scientifically has demonstrated that dogs are able to smell cancer. Experts say it's unlikely that pooches will become practical partners in cancer detection any time soon, but the results of the study, outlined this week in the British Medical Journal, are promising. They show that when urine from bladder cancer patients was set out among samples from healthy people or those with other diseases, the dogs - all ordinary pets - were able to identify the cancer patients' urine almost three times more often than would be expected by chance alone. "The issue is not whether or not they can detect cancer, because clearly they can. The issue is whether you can set up a system whereby they can communicate with you. That requires further ingenuity," said Tim Cole, a professor of medical statistics at Imperial College in London, who was unconnected with the study and is the owner of a chocolate Labrador retriever. David Neal, a bladder and prostate cancer surgeon at Cambridge University in England, said it's plausible dogs might be able to pick up the scent of cancer because people with the disease shed abnormal proteins in their urine. "I'm skeptical about whether it will be implementable, but scientifically it should be followed up," said Neal, a spokesman for Cancer Research UK, Britain's cancer society, who was not involved in the research. "It might be that the dogs are better than our current machines at picking up abnormal proteins in the urine. What are the dogs picking up? Can we get a machine that does the same?" It is thought that a dog's sense of smell is generally 10,000 to 100,000 times better than a human's. The idea that dogs may be able to smell cancer was first put forward in 1989 by two London dermatologists, who described the case of a woman asking for a mole to be cut out of her leg because her dog would constantly sniff at it, even through her trousers, but ignore all her other moles. One day, the dog, a female border collie-Doberman mix, had tried to bite the mole off when the woman was wearing shorts. It turned out she had malignant melanoma - a deadly form of skin cancer. It was caught early enough to save her life. Then in 2001, two English doctors reported a similar case of a man with a patch of eczema on his leg for 18 years. One day his pet Labrador started to persistently sniff the patch, even through his trousers. It turned out he had developed skin cancer and, once the tumor was removed, the dog showed no further interest in the eczema patch. A handful of similar anecdotes have since been reported, but the latest study is the first rigorous test of the theory to be published. The experiment, conducted by researchers at Amersham Hospital in Buckinghamshire, England, and the organization Hearing Dogs for Deaf People, set out to prove whether dogs could be trained to detect cancer. Six dogs - all pets of the trainers - were used in the study. They included three working strain cocker spaniels, one papillon, a Labrador and a mongrel. The trainers used urine from bladder cancer patients, from people sick with unrelated diseases and from healthy people to train the dogs over seven months to select the cancer-unique elements by process of elimination. They learned to ignore differences in the urine samples that were due to age, sex, infection, diet and other factors. Urine from 36 bladder cancer patients and 108 comparison volunteers was used. Each dog had to sniff seven urine samples and lie down next to the one from a bladder cancer patient. The test was repeated eight times for each dog, with new urine samples every time. Taken as a group, they correctly selected the right urine on 22 out of 54 occasions, giving an average success rate of 41 percent. By chance alone, you'd expect them to be accurate one-seventh, or 14 percent, of the time. The two best dogs, Tangle and Biddy - both cocker spaniels - were right 56 percent of the time, according to trainer Andrew Cook. The papillon Eliza, tied with Bea, the third cocker spaniel, followed by the Labrador, Jade. Bringing up the rear was Toddy the mongrel. "Toddy, bless him, was working at a rate no better than chance, really, but we still love him," Cook said. One of the cancer patients was identified correctly by all six dogs, whereas two other cancer patients were consistently missed, indicating that perhaps the strength of the urine signal varies from person to person, or according to severity of the disease. Perhaps the most intriguing finding, though, was in a comparison patient whose urine was used during the training phase. All the dogs unequivocally identified that urine as a cancer case, even though screening tests before the experiment had shown no cancer. Doctors conducted more detailed tests on the patient and found a life-threatening tumor in the right kidney. This article was taken from Netscape News. Thanks to Kano's dad, Tim, for the contribution. top  PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT - KEEP 'UM SAFE SAFETY LOOP™ The only accessory for the 'Retractable Leash' The Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop ends the fumbling and dropping associated with the retractable leash and provides the user with a SAFE, SECURE way to walk their pet. The 'Safety Loop' easily attaches to any retractable leash in seconds and is the 'Missing Link' for everyone who wants their pets to experience the sense of freedom that a retractable leash offers without the hassles or dangers.
Colors Available: Royal Blue, Red, Purple, Black Made in the USA  A note from the person behind this fabulous creation: The 'Safety Loop' was developed from real-world experience and need. When my Italian Greyhound was about 6 months old, I accidently dropped my retractable leash. We were walking in an urban neighborhood in Seattle, near a major street. The retractable leash hit the sidewalk, making a sharp, loud noise and then began to 'retract' towards her. She panicked and began to run towards the busy street. A friend and I were able to catch her at the last possible moment, and averted what would have been certain death. I couldn't sleep for 3 nights, hearing her screams as she ran from the retractable leash in sheer terror, and I knew that there had to be something done. I began watching other pet owners with retractable leashes and noticed that they were dropping and fumbling with them all the time. The problem with the retractable leash is that the user has to constantly 'grip it'. They cannot let go for a moment, and there were many instances where a person might need two hands to quickly do something. My friend and I brainstormed and came up with a simple solution for the problem, the Keep 'Um Safe Safety Loop™. We tested the 'Safety Loop' with dogs weighing up to 100 pounds using a variety of retactable leashes. We consulted with trainers, pet walkers, and owners. The users were thrilled with the 'Loop' and satisfied customers constantly write us saying that they will never walk their pet without the 'Safety Loop' again. ... and we can proudly say our product is completely Made in the USA. This product can be purchased from either of our locations: top This article taken in part from Dog Fancy Magazine, December 2004. More than two million pets in the United States have a microchip as a form of identification. The size of a grain of rice, a microchip is implanted under the skin between the shoulder blades and contains the manufacturer's name and a pet identification number. The information can be retrieved using a scanner and the pet's owner located , as long as the owner keeps the information updated in a national database. While microchipping greatly increases reunions between lost pets and their owners, "A microchip can lead to a false sense of security," says John Snyder, a senior director of companion animals at the Humane Society of the United States. "Competing companies are producing microchips with different frequencies. As a result, not all microchips can be read by all scanners, and few shelters and veterinarians are equipped with scanners to read each type of chip. Currently, three microchips are distributed in the United States. Those distributed under the names of Avid and Home Again emit a radio signal of 125 Kilohertz. The ISO chip -approved by the International Standards Organization, which sets technology standards for business and industry worldwide - emits a signal of 134 kilohertz. The scanners for the 125-kilohertz chip cannot detect the 134-kilohertz chip - and vise versa. Some shelters have a scanner called "universal", but that name is misleading; the universal scanner can read only the two 125-kilohertz chips. A shelter or veterinarian "literally has to use three different scanners to get it right," Snyder says. "What is needed is a global scanner that can detect all microchips." Microchipping can be the solution for reuniting millions of lost pets with their owners, but it requires a unified approach. "We don't want anyone to stop buying any one particular microchip," says M. Sue Richey, director of the AKC's Champion Animal Recovery, an organization that maintains a database for the microchip recovery. "It's about eliminating needless euthanasia because a chip cannot be detected." LINKS: top University of Illinois College of Veterinary Medicine Veterinary Extension/Office of Public Engagement Telephone: 217-333-2907 An archive of pet columns is on the Web at http://www.cvm.uiuc/petcolumns/ By Kim Marie Labak You've got a great female pedigree dog with papers, and you figure you can make some extra cash if she has puppies. You think that to breed her, all you have to do is mate her with a stud, and a few months later she'll go into the closet and have puppies. According to Dr. Thomas Graves, breeder, dog show judge, and veterinary internist at the University of Illinois Veterinary Teaching Hospital in Urbana, these are just a few misconceptions about breeding dogs. He explains that proper breeding requires time, money, education, and experience, and often yields little or no financial profit. Also, since pet overpopulation is a growing problem, he believes dogs should not be bred unless there's good reason. Dr. Graves cites the following inappropriate reasons to breed a bitch:
Obviously there has to be some breeding, because without breeding, there would be no puppies to grow up into dogs--and who wants a world without dogs? Dr. Graves says that good reasons to breed a bitch include: to perpetuate good qualities of a certain breed of dogs and to perpetuate a specific breed. Specific breeds create dogs for specific purposes or for show, so if certain qualities or breeds are in demand, the puppies you breed can find a good home. If you are seriously considering breeding, there are several steps to the process. First, determine if your bitch is the quality to be bred. Every breed has a standard listed by the American Kennel Club at www.akc.org. If your bitch fits her breed standards, the next step is to get her examined by a veterinarian for her suitability for pregnancy and for inheritable abnormalities. Aside from making pregnancy and whelping difficult, health problems can be passed on to puppies, perpetuating unhealthy traits in a breed. If your dog has good traits you want to pass on, fits her breed standard, and is healthy, you should educate yourself about breeding by reading, attending dog shows, and talking to reputable breeders. If you decide to try breeding, find a reputable breeder to mentor you, and develop a relationship with a veterinarian you can call on for pregnancy and whelping problems. Getting a bitch pregnant is not simple. You must choose a stud dog according to his desirable traits and check his pedigree (his family tree) to avoid inbreeding and inheritable defects or disease. Estrus varies from breed to breed and individual to individual, so timing of mating is crucial to ensure pregnancy. Dr. Graves says that most cases of "infertility" in bitches are actually due to timing problems--either mating too early or too late. To ensure pregnancy, mating may have to be repeated regularly during the female's estrus. Many people believe that having babies is a "natural process" and assume dogs shouldn't have problems during pregnancy or whelping. Dr. Graves explains that, on the contrary, purebred dogs have been unnaturally selected, so some of these "man-made" breeds may be prone to complications. It's very common to lose puppies during whelping, and to minimize this loss, a breeder works with a veterinarian to learn how to identify and handle problems during whelping. Breeding a bitch is not a light undertaking; it is more than a hobby, yet doesn't yield profits like a business, so breeders must have time, money, and plenty of energy to invest. For more information about dog breeding, visit the American Kennel Club Web site at www.akc.org. An archive of pet columns is on the Web at http://www.cvm.uiuc.edu/petcolumns/ Source: Dr. Thomas Graves For information about items reported on this website, please contact: acesnews@aces.uiuc.edu Information Technology and Communication Services News and Public Affairs 65 Mumford Hall 1301 W. Gregory Drive, Urbana, IL 61801 Phone:217-333-4870, Fax 217-333-2614 URL: http://web.aces.uiuc.edu/news/ top  LOOKING FOR LOCAL PET INFORMATION? DIAL Pets911. This article compliments of the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) The Humane Society of the United States gets phone calls and e-mails daily from pet owners asking for help: Where is my nearest animal shelter. Do you have a list of pet-friendly apartments? Where do I find a low-cost spay and neuter clinic? Where can I see pictures and descriptions of pets available for adoption? Thanks to a nationwide public service called Pets 911, finding that information has never been easier. The HSUS has partnered with Pets 911 to help people across the country quickly and easily find the local pet-related information they need. Pets 911 consists of both a web site (www.pets911.com) and a toll-free, automated hotline (1-888-PETS-911) that allows pet lovers to access local information simply by providing their zip code. You can scan through pictures of adoptable pets posted by some 950 animal shelters and adoption groups, and search by breed and other characteristics. You can search tens of thousands of lost-and-found pet listings from all areas of the United States. You can also find nearby emergency veterinary hospitals, pet-friendly apartments, and much more. Best of all, you can obtain all this information for free. Founded three years ago as an offshoot of Earth 911, a successful environmental web site, Pets 911 has the support of many of the nation's largest animal welfare organizations. In addition to The HSUS, founding partners include American Humane, SPAY/USA, the Doris Day Animal Foundation, and PETsMART Charities. Corporate America, including PETsMART, AT&T, HP, and Kodak, covers all the costs associated with Pets 911. Pets 911 features information from more than 7,000 animal shelters and other agencies across the country. Since its inception, Pets 911 has facilitated the adoption of hundreds of thousands of pets. By joining forces, The HSUS and Pets 911 hope to solve the issue of animal homelessness by connecting pet caregivers with local animal shelters, veterinary clinics, pet-friendly apartments, and other resources. Visit Pets911 now. top KIDS AND CRUELTY: EXPLAINING ANIMAL CRUELTY From the ASPCA Fight Animal Cruelty Department. From cats to canaries, from Dobermans to Dachshunds, our pets often seem to know how we feel. They comfort us when we're hurt, and make us happy when we're sad. They share our joy, and stay by our side when times are bad. But, sometimes, some people are mean to animals. How do you explain this to a child? WHAT IS THE IMPACT OF ANIMAL CRUELTY? Mahatma Gandhi said that "the greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated." Animals feel pain and fear like we do, but they are often helpless victims because they can't say what happened to them. In fact, some people choose to abuse animals over people for this very reason! If we wish to create a humane society, we must stop cruelty against those who are most vulnerable--like animals. Cruelty toward animals does more than cause other living, feeling beings to experience pain and fear. Like the death of a canary in a coal mine, violence toward animals can be a sign that people are also in danger. Someone who commits animal abuse may have serious psychological problems. Studies have found that many people convicted of violent crimes had a history of animal cruelty. Jeffrey Dahmer, Ted Bundy, Andrew Cunanan, David "Son of Sam" Berkowitz, and Albert "Boston Strangler" DeSalvo were cruel to animals before they started hurting people. Adults are not the only ones whose cruelty to animals can be a sign of deeper troubles. Many murderous children and teenagers--like Eric Harris and Dylan Klebold of Columbine High School--also had histories of animal cruelty. Animals in homes with family violence are also often victims of violence. One study found that animals were abused in 88% of the homes in which a child was abused. Another study found that 83% of families reported for animal abuse also had children who are at high risk of abuse or neglect. Although most of the abuse toward the animals came from the parents, about a quarter of abused children abuse animals.  WHAT CAN YOU DO ABOUT IT? "Animal cruelty is a national problem," says ASPCA Special Investigator Annemarie Lucas. "Violence towards animals crosses all racial and socioeconomic lines and reaches from coast to coast." No matter where you live, there is a lot you can do to stop animal cruelty. One of the most power tools for preventing cruelty to animals is education. It is important to plant the seeds of kindness in children early, and to nurture their development as the child grows. Children not only need to learn what they shouldn't do, but also what they can and should do. When children see that their pets are happy and loving, it will make the child feel good, too. This in turn will help the children care for their pets' feelings. However, since people don't always realize they are being cruel, adults need education, too. If you are not a teacher, please urge your local schools to integrate humane education into their curricula. If you are a teacher, bring humane education into your classroom. To help you, your local shelter may have outreach programs, education materials, camps, etc. You can also find plenty of humane ideas and activities at the Humane Education section, and on our children's websites, www.animaland.org and www.animalessons.org. Every child is unique, and adults should use caution and careful thought when discussing cruelty with children. In general, children under four simply should not be exposed to cruelty. Two year olds can begin to learn that their actions make others - including animals - happy and sad. With two and three year-olds, discuss their own experiences and how they would feel if they were treated the way they treat their pets or other animals in their immediate lives. Help them relate not only the ways they would feel hurt, but also the ways they would feel happy. With all children under six or so, you may wish to help guide their hands so they can learn how to pet and hold their animal companions. Children do not have fine control over their movements and impulses - they will want to treat their pets with love, but will need a little help from you to do it correctly. Children who are between about four and six often begin to understand basic moral concepts, such as fairness. These children can learn to be kind to animals because the animals "deserve" it. Children may discuss injuries they have had themselves, but do not introduce discussions about other types of injuries. Try to limit discussions of animal cruelty to the simple fact that animals can be hurt; do not describe how they can be hurt (e.g., starvation, physical abuse, etc.). With most children who are six to ten years old, you can begin to discuss why someone might be mean to an animal - as long as you make sure the child always keeps in mind that it is wrong to hurt animals. In addition, do not let discussions of animal cruelty satisfy the morbid curiosity some children of this age may have. Children of this age often form some of their earliest memories and impressions about the state of the world beyond their families. It is very important that adults filter what these children perceive! Even if children witness violence as a "bad example" or as a way NOT to act, they are still witnessing violence, and can be strongly affected by it. Many children between 10 and 14 are exploring their self-image and reflecting upon their relationships with others. Studies indicate that children of this age are still strongly affected by violence, so discussions about animal cruelty should still be kept free of details about the violence. Nonetheless, the issue can be raised directly - if delicately - with most of these children. Adults should make it clear that they do not condone violence in their own thoughts and behavior. Children of this age are finely attuned to the words and actions of adults, and still rely on them as role models. Parents, teachers, and trusted adults can also discuss with 10 to 14 year-olds how they would act if their peers or friends treated animals cruelly. By couching the advice in terms of what you would do if you were in a given situation, you can help children overcome peer pressure and follow what they know is right. These children may encounter others abusing animals - knowing that they are in the right and will be supported for standing up to it is very important at this age of strong peer pressure. Again, with all children - even older teens - keep in mind the importance of modeling appropriate behaviors. Our children do emulate us, even if they wouldn't admit it. If we treat animals cruelly or as unfeeling machines, our children will probably think that this is right or, at least, normal. The more a child identifies with an adult, the greater an impact that person will have on the child - in both good and bad ways. Children who know of animal cruelty should tell an adult about it. Make sure children know who they can trust--such as parents, teachers, police officers, etc.--and nurture their trust so they can tell you. References Further Reading: top This article courtesy of Dog Fancy Magazine. Den animals by nature, most dogs will seek out cozy, cave-like nooks in which to sleep or lounge - under tables and beds, behind big chairs, or burrowed between pillows. Consequently, most dogs readily accept crates as a den-substitute. Here are seven tips to make crate training easy and comfortable for your dog:
LINKS: Dog Fancy Magazine top  HSUS URGES STUDENTS & TEACHERS TO PURSUE ALTERNATIVES TO ANIMAL DISSECTIONAs students head back to school, The Humane Society of the United States is urging parents, teachers and students to consider alternatives to the traditional animal dissection lesson that is still a fixture in biology classes. An estimated six million animals are used in high school dissection every year. They include frogs, fetal pigs, cats, rabbits, turtles and a variety of other species. Many of these animals are removed from the wild and killed specifically for dissection purposes. "The vast majority of research studies have demonstrated that students who choose not to dissect animals perform as well or even better than their counterparts," said Dr. Lesley King, director of education and animal welfare for The HSUS' Animal Research Issues program. "Dissection undoubtedly stops some students from pursuing advanced biology classes. Despite these concerns, some schools still require students to perform dissection as a prerequisite for higher grades." Dissection alternatives include computer programs, models and videotapes that allow students to view an actual dissection without performing one, or to learn interactively on simulations and models of actual animals. The HSUS runs a dissection alternatives loan program that includes a wide variety of items available, for free, to students or teachers. Additionally, The HSUS' biologists can help teachers identify the best resources for their lessons, through a teachers' consultancy program. Eleven states have laws protecting a student's right to choose an alternative to dissection and The HSUS is urging more states and school boards to pass such requirements. The following states currently have laws upholding a student's right to choose humane alternatives to dissection without being penalized: Illinois, Florida, California, Pennsylvania, New York, and Rhode Island. Maine has a similar state-wide policy, and Louisiana passed a similar resolution in 1992. Last month, the New Jersey senate voted unanimously to support student choice legislation. In Maryland, school boards are required to include information on available alternatives in their course listings. Many schools and school boards have independently enacted student-choice policies. Delaware, Massachusetts and Vermont are among the states that have considered dissection choice legislation. Biology teachers support student choice. In a recent survey of high school biology teachers in Mid-Atlantic states, conducted by The HSUS and presented at the recent scientific World Congress on Alternatives to Animal Use in the Life Sciences in New Orleans, a majority, 65 percent, thought that students should be given a choice between animal dissection and other types of learning. 85 percent of teachers using dissection reported student objection to dissection in their biology classrooms. In many cases, teachers or students were able to identify an alternative. However, in a notable number of cases, the teacher gave the student a failing grade if he or she did not participate in dissection. "The Humane Society of the United States maintains that every student should make an informed choice about dissection. Students may be reluctant to speak up about their objections, but we encourage anyone who opposes dissection to request an alternative from their teacher and raise the issue with their school board," said King. "Even in states that don't mandate dissection alternatives, we urge all science teachers to consider alternatives to dissection and to make students aware of their options." Choice-in-dissection laws (or policies) allow students to refuse to participate in classroom exercises--particularly dissections--that are harmful to animals. These laws typically require the school to notify students and/or their parents at the beginning of a course when animal dissection is part of that course; they allow students to choose humane alternatives; and they require that students who choose to desist from dissection not be penalized for doing so. These laws apply to kindergarten through high school. To date, no such law covers college undergraduates. In some cases, teachers may still require dissections if they believe no adequate alternatives exist. LINKS: top |
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