DOGNAPPERS PART I by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.
Doggnapping in the United States has reached an alarming rate. Millions of family pets are reported missing annually. Many of these pets are taken forcibly, or by deception, through so called "free-to-good-home" ads. These pets are then resold.
Dogs and cats are sold to any number of different clients for many uses to include, dog-fighting rings (as fighters or blood-bait), puppy mills for breeding, meat for human consumption, prey for domesticated exotic animals, bait for wild animals, fur for clothing, protective guard dogs, cult-rituals, or used as food for surviving animals. The most demanding and highest paying end-users, however, are universities and testing & research laboratories, needing hundreds of thousands of animals each year.
Unlicensed dealers and common thieves, collectively known as 'bunchers' will steal your pet for resale. They either sell directly to the end user, or more commonly, sell to USDA-licensed animal dealers (Class B dealer), who in turn sell to end-users. A buncher may get anywhere from $10 - $50 per animal; a licensed dealer may get from $50 - $700, all depending on size, breed, and condition of the animal.
Some pounds, shelters, and humane societies may sell 'surplus' dogs and cats to Class B dealers and/or research facilities - a practice commonly called 'pound seizure.' Animals are required by law to be turned over on demand if they are not reclaimed by their guardian or adopted out. Some pounds/shelters/humane societies therefore must sell (and/or choose to sell) animals to Class B dealers or research facilities. To date, only 13 states have outlawed pound seizure: Connecticut, Delaware, Hawaii, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont and West Virginia.
The Pet Safety and Protection Act introduced to congress several times to date (with-out passing), would close the loop-hole in the Animal Welfare Act and hopefully put an end to this horrendous problem.
Future articles will delve further into this topic. If you would like to learn more on your own, the following links would be helpful:
Pet Theft Report To Congress S.T.O.P. (Stop Taking Our Pets) Stolen Pets In Defense of Animals People for Animal Rights
Follow these tips to guard against theft:
- Never leave your dog unattended ... nowhere - anywhere .. not your car, not your yard.
- Padlock gates.
- Your dog's play area should not be visible from the street.
- Educate yourself about dog thefts in your area; notify the police of suspicious activity. (Hopefully we'll have a report in next month's newsletter on this subject).
- Don't list your address in articles or (newspaper) ads that mention your dog.
- Pets should wear tags at all times.
- Provide your dog with permanent identification such as a tattoo and/or microchip.
- Do not place a 'free-to-good-home' ad in the newspaper. If you must, there are very good guidelines to follow at Stolen Pets.
- Spay or neuter all pets. This makes them less inclined to wander.
- If a stranger approaches you about buying or breeding your pet, tell him the pet is altered, even if it hasn't been. Write down the person's vitals (name, address, license plate, etc.) and keep a close eye on your pet afterwards!
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DOGNAPPERS Part II "SID IS MISSING!" by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.
Unlicensed dealers and common thieves, collectively known as 'bunchers' will steal your pet for resale. They either sell directly to the end user, or more commonly, sell to USDA-licensed animal dealers (Class B dealer), who in turn sell to end-users. A buncher may get anywhere from $10 - $50 per animal; a licensed dealer may get from $50 - $700, all depending on size, breed, and the condition of the animal.
Bunchers steal pets from off the street, from yards and vehicles, and anywhere else the animals are in public view. Bunchers have also stolen dogs from the owner at gunpoint, and other forcable means. But the easiest way for bunchers to obtain animals is through deception: They answer 'free-to-good-home' ads, promising owners they will provide pets with a loving home. Bunchers will say absolutely anything to obtain the animals - they live on a farm and need a dog to watch over their livestock; they are trying to replace a pet that recently died; they want a companion for their sick child; they need a pet for their son or daughter who is grieving the death of a family member, etc. Some bunchers will even use their own children as part of the ploy.
Bunchers often go after specific breeds or sizes of dogs. This is because research laboratories place 'orders' for a specific type of animal to USDA-licensed Class B dealers, who in turn call on the bunchers to acquire the animals.
What happens to pets once they are stolen? Documented reports from federal, state, and local authorities suggest the stolen animals are often held and transported under horrendous conditions. Animals taken by bunchers, as well as those purchased by Class B dealers, may end up in animal 'concentration camps'. They may face starvation and dehydration (the expenses of providing food and water, and cleaning up waste are ones bunchers won't be burdened with); extreme weather conditions without shelter; and any number of diseases and parasites. Animals may also be forced to survive in severely crowded cages or enclosures, or be chained to stakes or posts, barely able to move ... even discarded appliances have been used as cages. Animals may reside in the 'concentration camps' for several days to many months, although bunchers try to sell their property as quickly as possible. The mortality rate can be high.
The sale transactions normally take place at 'flea markets' and 'auctions', sometimes far from where the pets were initially stolen, even several states away. These auctions, which were once public events, are increasingly being held in private in some states, away from the scrutiny of pet owners, government authorities, and the media. In Missouri, regarded as the state with the largest amount of stolen pet trafficking, there are no less than 24 of such public auctions and flea markets, held typically on a weekly or monthly basis.
What to do if your pet is missing:
- Look around your house, property, and the surrounding area thoroughly. Be sure to check all places - sheds, garages, storm drains pipes, garbage receptacles, etc. ... places where your pet may be trapped or injured.
- Visit all animal shelters in the area on a daily basis for at least 10 days in a row. Take a photograph of your pet, and leave flyers. Phone calls to shelters may not yield reliable information.
- Place 'lost animal' ads in the local newspaper.
- Ask delivery persons (mail carriers, etc.) to watch out for a lost animal matching your pet's description.
- Call university and hospital animal laboratory departments (look in the Yellow Pages). Describe your pet to laboratory personnel. Also visit the laboratories with a picture of your pet and post a flyer in their offices.
- Let the community know your pet is missing! Use posters and flyers. A reward of at least $300 may encourage a thief to return your pet.
If you believe your pet has been stolen, also take the following action:
- Immediately contact your police or sheriff's department. Insist on filing a stolen property report. Law enforcement may not take an interest in your case, but remind them that stolen property is either a felony or misdemeanor under state law. It is also important that a report be on file to help you identify your pet, if found, and to help prosecute the thieves.
- Call 1-800-STOLEN PET, a pet theft hotline operated by In Defense of Animals, that may be able to provide assistance.
- Under the Freedom of Information Act, you may obtain a listing of Class B dealers in any area, provided by the USDA.
- Call your local animal welfare organizations to report the theft.
For more information:
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DOGNAPPERS - Part III by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.
"FREE-TO-GOOD-HOME"
We see these ads in the newspapers and on bulletin boards. Litters of puppies and kittens - even beloved family pets - who, for one reason or another must be given up. Most people have good intentions when they advertise a pet as "free-to-good-home". They care what happens to the animal and are not interested in making money. All they want to do is find a nice family that is willing to give the pet a loving, responsible, stable home.
Unfortunately, most people are not aware of the terrible things that can happen if they don't screen potential new owners carefully. There are unscrupulous people out there that will prey upon these ads and obtain the animals in what ever way is necessary.
What can happen to an animal from a "free-to-good-home" ad.
- Used to 'live train' or 'blood' fighting dogs. This can be dogs and cats of any size. Often, a larger dog's muzzle will be duct-taped shut so that they can't bite back, allowing the fighting dog to gain confidence in killing a larger dog. The animal you gave away to a 'good home', expecting it to be a family pet, is used to bait a fighting dog and is literally torn to pieces.
- Bait to train greyhounds.
- Fur for clothing.
- Fish bait.
- Tortured or killed by animal abusers or pranksters.
- Protective guard dogs.
- Live prey, food, or bait for wild or exotic animals.
- Sacrificed in cult rituals. Some people find this hard to believe, but the FBI has many files documenting this kind of activity in the United States.
- Unaltered pure-bred (or pure-bred looking) dogs may end up as 'breeding stock' in a puppy mill.
- Meat for human consumption. There are two groups discovered in my research, BRESNA (Brother Ellis Society of North America) and PAW (People Against Waste). These groups advocate slaughtering and eating dogs & cats and state that the easiest and best way to get this 'free meat' is to answer 'free-to-good-home' ads. Recipes and preparation instructions are graphically displayed on their website and they also offer suggestions on how to fatten up the dogs ... feed them the kittens!
- Collectors ... we have all heard or read stories about these people. Collectors are people who actually think they are rescuing a dog or cat - they truly do love animals. Collectors will take in strays and/or watch the 'free-to-good-home' ads. More and more free pets come to them ... until they are finally overwhelmed.
- Bunchers ... if you remember from last month's article, bunchers are unlicensed dealers and common thieves who obtain your pet for resale. They either sell directly to the end user, or more commonly, sell to USDA-licensed animal dealers (Class B dealers), who in turn sell to end users.
- Research Laboratories. The most consistent and highest paying client of the Class B dealer. Pets are valued by laboratories because of their gentleness and trust of people. Animals from 'purpose-bred' breeders are unsocialized and often difficult to handle.
DO YOU REALLY HAVE TO GIVE UP YOUR PET?
Do some soul searching and ask yourself if you really have to find a new home for your pet. There's a big difference between being forced to give up your dog and wanting to 'get rid of it'. Search your heart for the real reason why your dog can't live with you anymore. Be honest with yourself. Your answer will probably fall into one of two categories: People Problems or Dog Problems.
The Most Common People Problems:
"We're moving and we can't find a landlord who'll let us keep our pet." Many landlords don't allow children either but you'd never give up one of your kids if you couldn't find the right apartment. Affordable rental homes that allow pets are out there if you work to find them. People give up too easily.
"We don't have enough time for the dog." As a puppy, your dog took far more of your time than they do now. Are you really that busy? Will getting rid of your pet really make your life less stressful?
The Most Common Dog Problems:
Behavior Problems. If you got your dog as a puppy and it now has a behavior problem you can't live with, you must accept the fact that you are at least partly responsible for the way your dog is now. You have 4 options:
- You can continue to live with your dog the way it is.
- You can get help to correct the problem.
- You can try to give your problem to someone else.
- You can have the dog destroyed.
Sometime take a trip to the Humane Society. They keep track of the reasons why people surrender their pet and how many times they've heard the excuse in a given month. It's enlightening.
GUIDELINES FOR FINDING A 'GOOD HOME' FOR YOUR PET.
If you absolutely must find a new home for your pet, here are some suggestions to keep in mind:
- Check with local animal welfare organizations. Some will offer help in finding a good home for an unwanted pet if you are willing to 'foster' until a new home is found. Don't hesitate to call breed rescues. If you purchased the pet from a responsible breeder, s/he will help you find a new home for the pet. I have provided a list of some of the area's animal welfare organizations at the end of this article.
- Charge an adoption fee! Never, never, never give the pet away 'FREE'. If you do not want the money, give it to an animal organization. Paying a fee for a pet shows good faith on the part of the new owner and demonstrates their willingness to properly care for the animal. Besides, if a person cannot afford an adoption fee, they are not going to be able to afford to properly care for the animal. Remember - a free pet is a disposable pet.
- Screen individuals thoroughly and check references - the best is a vet reference. Ask prospective adopters about their prior pets and their philosophy on care and discipline.
- Ask for identification. Copy down the full name, address, phone number, driver's license number, and car license plate tags. If the person does not want to give the information, do not adopt to them.
- Meet with the entire potential adoptive family, including children before you agree to adopt the animal to anyone.
- Have your pet altered before it is adopted. If assistance is needed, contact this area's Spay/Neuter Assistance Program.
- Be honest about the medical history and behavior of the animal. The goal is to find a good, permanent home. If the pet is misrepresented, most likely the adoption will not work.
- Make a home visit to the potential new home. Be sure to take someone with you ... do not go alone! Do not allow the new family to take the animal from your home - always deliver the pet yourself.
- Have the pet meet any existing animals in the new home and observe behaviors.
- Have all applicants fill out a pet adoption agreement. Samples of contracts can be found on some of the sites listed below. Require, in writing, that if the adoption does not work out, the animal must be returned to you.
- Ask to take a picture of the person(s) and their new animal companion.
- Call a few times during the first few weeks to make sure all is going well. Make yourself available to give advice and support.
Local Animal Welfare Organization are listed on this web site @ Pet Education, Welfare Groups:
Here is an excellent web site on finding a new home for your dog. Even though it is a Siberian Husky Rescue site, the message is applicable to any breed. Siberian Rescue.com
Dognapper websites:
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