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PLANNING TO FERTILIZE YOUR LAWN WITH COCOA BEAN MULCH? READ THIS FIRST.
From the ASPCA News Alert, 2003.

As warmer weather approaches, you're probably getting ready to dig into spring. And for many, that involves digging into flower beds and gardens. If you're thinking of using cocoa bean mulch to fertilize your lawn, please think twice. Made from spent cocoa beans used in the production of chocolate, cocoa bean mulch may deter slugs and snails, but it also attracts companion canines, who can be poisoned by eating it.

Cocoa beans contain caffeine and theobromine, both chemicals that are toxic to dogs. Depending on the amount ingested, symptoms range from vomiting and diarrhea (that's if about two ounces were eaten by a 50-pound dog) to tremors, seizures and death, if a canine of the same size were to eat nine ounces of cocoa mulch.
If you suspect that your dog has eaten this organic fertilizer, immediately contact your veterinarian or the APCC Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 for 24-hour emergency assistance.

For more information on cocoa bean mulch and other substances toxic to pets, please visit: http://www.APCA.org .

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IT'S FLEA SEASON .. AGAIN !!
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Ctenocephalides felis, the fleas that affect dogs and cats, can breed year-round in doors. The life cycle varies according to where they live. In the south, fleas may hatch year-round, while their northern counterparts flourish in the spring through fall months. Moving through the life cycle from the egg to the larvae to pupae to adult can take a flea anywhere from 14 to 140 days depending on conditions. (The typical flea population consists of 50% eggs, 35% larvae, 14% pupae, and 1% Adults).

Fleas mate shortly after contact with animals. Once they produce eggs, the eggs often drop off the animal to complete their larval and pupae stages. The pupae stage can last from 3 weeks to several months depending on the environment (Fleas like temperatures of 62 - 83 degrees Fahrenheit with 52 - 92 percent humidity). Once hatched, adult fleas search for a host, and if fleas are not removed from the host they can live for more than two months, again, depending on environmental conditions.

Pets that exhibit signs of itching, scratching, and unusual amounts of chewing and licking may have fleas. Although fleas are sometimes difficult to spot, black specks (flea feces) on pets' skin and coat are one sign (these specks turn reddish brown when placed on dampened white paper). Flea infested dogs may scratch mainly on the lower part of their bodies while cats scratch more around their neck & head. Fleas also can cause an allergic reaction called fleabite dermatitis, a hypersensitivity to flea saliva, which can cause a rash inflammation or hair loss in some pets. If ingested, fleas also can transmit tapeworm to pets.

Effective treatments for fleas require killing fleas and breaking the flea life cycle. Because fleas multiply rapidly, treating fleas often involves treating both the pet and your home. The topic of flea eradication or control can be baffling and appear complex.

For an excellent book on the subject, consider purchasing "The Complete Book of Flea Control" by Ted Kuepper (3rd edition). The 78-page book can be purchased from the author's web site at www.4fleas.com or at www.amazon.com ($7.95 + S&H). It's a must have book for the conscientious pet owner.

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THE "CERTIFIED HUMANE" LABEL

Even though this article is not about 'dogs', we felt that it needed to be added to this month's newsletter. An organization known as the Humane Farm Animal Care (HFAC) has recently unveiled the "Certified Humane Raised & Handled" labeling & certification program. This program is meant to help consumers choose meat, poultry, eggs, and dairy products that come from animals raised according to humane standards. According to the HFAC, each year more than eight billion animals are used in food production in the United States, and a majority of them suffer on factory farms.

The "Certified Humane" label is based on strict animal handling standards, rigorous on-site inspections of farms in the program and the United States Department of Agriculture's verification of the entire process. Under the system, added growth hormones are prohibited, and animals must be raised on an antibiotic-free diet. Shelter & rest areas must be provided in addition to sufficient space and animals must have the ability to engage in natural behaviors.

Like the ASPCA & the Humane Society, we should all consider supporting this program "because of its cutting-edge efforts to genuinely improve the quality of life for animals raised for food in the United States."

For more information on the program, and for a list of companies that have already been certified, visit:

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SKUNKED !!
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

There are few things more heart stopping than the realization that a skunk and your dog have just had an intimate conversation. Don't panic - call us at the Animal House. We consider neutralizing a 'skunked' dog a priority because the smell can permeate every part of your home and environment. Call us as close to the time of the actual event as 'open hours' permit ... TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE! The sooner a neutralizing shampoo is applied, the better the chances of removing the odor.

If you prefer to bath (or neutralize) the pet yourself, we'll share our expertise with you. An 'official' skunk deodorizing shampoo can be purchased at your local pet store ... or do what we do. The following recipe can be made from ordinary household items and in our experience, works better than any commercial product.
  • 1 quart of hydrogen peroxide (3%)
  • ¼ cup baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon dishwashing detergent

After mixing the ingredients, wet your pet down and work the mixture through the pet's coat, being careful to avoid the face area. Let stand 10 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Repeat, if necessary. For the face, we spray the area with a 100% natural deodorizing solution.

CAUTION: Throw any excess mixture away; if capped for any period of time, the mixture will explode.

As stated earlier, the sooner the dog is bathed in a neutralizing solution after being 'skunked', the better chance of totally erasing the odor. In some cases, for about 6 months after being 'skunked', a slight odor can be detected if the dog becomes wet.

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SEVEN STEPS TO A HAPPIER PET

The Humane Society of the United States, in its constant battle to end animal neglect, cruelty, and abuse, encourages everyone to take the following actions in support of our animals:

  1. Make sure your pet wears an identification tag to enable him to be returned to you if lost.

  2. To prevent destructive behavioral problems, make sure you enroll your new puppy or dog in behavioral training classes.

  3. Animal behavioral problems can be health related. Make sure your pet has a complete medical exam by a veterinarian at least once a year.

  4. Prepare for disasters. Make sure you have a plan for your pet in the event of a hurricane, tornado, fire, or flood.

  5. Plan for your pet's future in case something happens to you.

  6. Learn how to avoid dog bites, and how to prevent your dog from biting.

  7. Please spay and neuter your pet. Also, use the United States Postal Service spay/neuter stamp to help raise awareness.

For more information, visit the
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THINKING ABOUT GETTING A DOG ...

Are you or someone you know contemplating getting a family dog? Here are 10 guidelines to ensure the dog you choose is the dog you keep for life.
  • Have each member of the household independently make a list of what s/he wants in a dog. Include gender, size, markings, breed, age, and personality.
  • Meet and compare lists, noting similarities and differences. Work toward a compromise, acceptable to all.
  • Examine your current housing situation. If renting, will the property owner allow you to get a dog. Are there any limits regarding size or number of dogs? If you own your own home, are you willing to install doggie doors, a fence, or other structures to provide a safe outdoor access for your new dog?
  • Will you walk your dog every day, including early morning hours and late evenings?
  • Are you willing to focus more on the dog's personality and breed characteristics and less on how cute it looks?
  • Are you away from the home 10 - 12 hours a day or do you travel a lot?
  • Are you willing to invest the time to housetrain a puppy?
  • Are you willing to enroll your puppy or your adult adoptee in classes that teach socialization and obedience?
  • Have you reviewed your household budget to make sure that you can afford a dog? Costs include food, pet supplies, veterinarian bills, grooming, and doggie daycare and boarding?
  • Do you acknowledge that adopting a dog can be a 10-year or longer commitment?

These guidelines are part of the Pets for Life Campaign and were developed in partnership with the Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) and the Denver Dumb Friends League, a non-profit animal shelter in Colorado. For more information on the Pets for Life campaign and various other articles on pet related subjects please visit their web site at:

EDITOR'S NOTE: Excellent, excellent, excellent web site covering such topics as: Moving - How to move your pet safely; Pets @ college; Providing for your pet's future; Renting with pets; Guidelines for finding a responsible home for your pet; and Coping with death. This is just a sampling of the topics, all of which I found to be informative and helpful. Check it out!

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MIX IT UP!
Give your mixed breed a competitive challenge.

Compiled by Kristin Crosley

A growing number of organizations allow mixed-breed dogs to compete and earn titles, either with other mixed-breed dogs or alongside purebreds. Most require the dog to have some obedience training and to be at least 18 months of age, spayed or neutered or not in season, not blind or otherwise disabled, not aggressive towards other dogs. Most organizations require a registration fee to participate.

Check out these organizations to get you and your dog involved:
  • American Mixed Breed Obedience Registration
    http://www.amborusa.org
    Mixed-breed dogs can earn obedience and non-obedience titles including those for Companion Dog, backpacking, therapy dog, flying disc, sledding and other activities. There is a $25 lifetime registration fee per dog.
  • Canine Freestyle Organization
    4207 Minton Dr.
    Fairfax, VA 22032
    http://www.canine-freestyle.com
    Offers classes, demonstrations and seminars on freestyle competitions. Membership is $20.00 per year or $200.00 for a lifetime.

    AH EDITOR'S NOTE: I could not find the above listed organization, however, I did find one named Canine Freestyle Federation with the same address and membership information. Their web site is http://www.canine-freestyle.org

  • International Disc Dog Handlers Association
    1690 Julius Bridge Rd.
    Ball Ground, GA 30107
    (770) 735-6200
    http://www.iddha.com
    Offers officially sanctioned testing, titling, and ranking for canine disc events. Annual membership is $20, lifetime membership $150, plus dog registration fees ranging from $7-10.
  • International Weight Pull Association
    1406 E. Sterns Rd.
    Erie, MI 48133
    (734) 848-8636
    http://www.iwpa.net
    Hosts about 100 pulls per season (September through March) in the U.S. and Canada.
  • Mixed Breed Clubs of America
    c/o Linda Lewis, Membership Secretary
    13884 State Rt. 104
    Lucasville, OH 45648-8586
    (740) 259-3941
    http://members.tripod.com/mbdca
    Dogs can earn titles in obedience, conformation, tracking, and lure coursing from this national registry.
  • North American Dog Agility Council, Inc.
    11522 South Highway 3
    Cataldo, ID 83810
    http://www.nadac.com
    Offers agility titles, classes, and competitions.
  • North American Dog Racing Association
    P.O. Box 84
    Fenton, MI 48430
    (810) 210-5315
    http://nadra.itgo.com
    Mixed-breed and purebred dogs can earn titles and compete in such activities as Grand Prix racing (a timed obstacle course), high jumping, relay racing, barrel racing, flying disc, and musical mats (a version of musical chairs).
  • North American Flyball Association, Inc.
    1400 W. Devon Ave. #512
    Chicago, IL 60660
    http://www.flyball.org
    Dogs compete in tournaments to earn titles.
  • United Kennel Club
    100 E. Kilgore Rd.
    Kalamazoo, MI 49002
    (269) 343-9020
    http://www.ukcdogs.com
    Mixed-breed dogs can participate in agility, obedience, and weight pull events.
  • United States Dog Agility Association Inc.,
    P.O. Box 850955
    Richardson, TX 75085
    (972) 487-2200
    http://www.usdaa.com
    Offers dog agility certification tests and tournaments.

Kristin Crosley is a free-lance writer based in Southern California.

This article is taken from the July 2003 issue of Dog Fancy Magazine.


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TIPS TO PROTECT PETS DURING SUMMER MONTHS

The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) urges pet owners to protect their pet companions during the high temperatures that characterize the summer months.
  • Don't leave pets in parked cars. Every summer in parked cars suffer brain damage and die from heat stroke. Even with the windows cracked, the temperature in a parked car can rise quickly to dangerous levels.
  • It is also dangerous, and in some states illegal, to place dogs in the back of pick-up trucks. Flying debris can cause serious injury and a dog may be unintentionally thrown from the truck into traffic.
  • Dog bites rise during summer months when we all spend a lot of time outside. Spaying and neutering reduce the likelihood that your dog will bite and provides many other health benefits.
  • Pets and pools can equal disaster. Prevent free access to pools and always supervise a pet in a pool.
  • Provide plenty of water and shade for pets to give them the opportunity to keep cool.
  • Pets need exercise even when it is hot but extra care needs to be taken with older dogs and short-nosed dogs. On very hot days, limit exercise to early morning or evening hours. Keep in mind that asphalt gets very hot and can injure your pets feet.
  • Another summertime threat is fleas. New treatments to prevent and treat fleas are available and are safe and effective for preventing flea infestation on your pet, in your home, and in your yard.
  • Fair-haired pets may require sunscreen on their noses and ear tips to prevent sunburn and skin cancer.
  • Don't take dogs to fireworks displays. The lights and the loud noises that thrill people are frightening to pets. They may try to escape or may even act aggressively out of fear.

For more information on summertime pet care, visit the Humane Society's website at http://www.HSUS.org

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GLAD TO MEET YA !
NOSE-TO-CROTCH SNIFFING.


We've all had that awkward moment when a friend's dog greets us not with an extended paw to shake but a bee-line to the crotch for a quick sniff. The dog is busy smelling clues about who you are while you and your friend turn beet red.

Dogs do the nose-to-crotch greeting because they are blessed with supersensitive noses. In the dog world, a nose-to-rear end greeting is as common as a handshake. A couple of good sniffs can tell a dog the gender, social status, and favorite foods of the one being sniffed. Dogs that know each other will often greet by sniffing each other's faces. Dogs of equal rank will simultaneously sniff each other's butts. A dog on the lower social rung will wait for the other dog to sniff under its tail before returning the gesture.

So, what can you do the next time your friend's dog comes bounding your way, about to target your crotch? Step toward the dog, making it back away, and firmly say, "No." Or have him obey a "Sit" command and then approach. Don't back away; to a dog, that's a sign of submission, and it will be more determined to take the first step and introduce itself doggie-style.

This article was taken from Dog Fancy Magazine.

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DO YOU HAVE AN AGGRESSIVE DOG?

Here's a checklist from Larry Lachman, Psy.D., a clinical psychologist, animal behavior consultant, and author of Dogs on the Couch (Overlook Press, 1999) in Pacific Heights, Calif.:
  • Has your dog ever attacked another dog or person without being provoked?
  • When your dog sees another dog, does it immediately growl, snarl, or lunge on its leash?
  • Has your dog ever bitten anyone in your family?
  • Does your dog growl and snap if you attempt to remove its bone, pet it while it's eating or while awakening from a nap?
  • Does your dog growl or attempt to bite you when you remove it from the couch or chair?
  • Does your dog attack its littermates?
  • Does your dog growl at its veterinarian or groomer?

Answering yes to any of these questions may indicate aggressive behavior in your dog. Seek immediate help from a veterinarian, animal behaviorist, or professional dog trainer experienced in successfully treating aggressive dogs.

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MOTHBALLS - POISON ALERT !!

Traditionally used to prevent clothing from being eaten by moth larvae, mothballs are also scattered in backyards to repel deer, raccoons, and other wild animals. But unfortunately, that hasn't stopped domestic animals from getting into this toxic household product. According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC), the ingestion of just one mothball can cause serious problems in dogs and cats. Symptoms include vomiting, lethargy, seizures, and blood disorders. Kidney failure and coma can develop in sever cases.

To prevent this from happening, always keep mothballs in areas that aren't accessible to pets or other animals. Keep in mind that the most dangerous mothballs are the old-fashioned type, which contain 100 percent naphthalene. Paradichlorvos is a safer type to use. If you suspect that your pet has ingested a mothball call your veterinarian at the ASPCA's emergency hotline at 1-888-4-ANI-HELP for round-the-clock telephone assistance.

For more information on poison prevention, visit the ASPCA online.

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HEAD COLLARS
IT'S NOT A MUZZLE !!

by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

A head collar is not a muzzle! When fitted properly, your dog is free to open his mouth to eat, drink, pant, fetch, bark, and even bite - except when you close his mouth by pulling on the leash. We at Animal House, share the opinion of many behavioral professionals who think that the Gentle Leader® made by Premier, is the best head collar on the market.

Why And How the Gentle Leader® Works.

The head collar has two straps - the collar portion fits high and snug at the top of the neck, and the nose loop fits loosely and comfortably across the base of the muzzle.

The Nose Loop - One of the ways the 'pack leader' will demonstrate his position is by gently but firmly grasping a subordinate's muzzle in its mouth. This is a clear signal regarding who is the boss! The Gentle Leader's Nose Loop encircles your dog's muzzle in the same manner, letting him know in his own language that you are his leader.

The Neck Strap - Have you ever noticed how puppies seem to melt in relaxation when their mother picks them up at the back of the neck? Gentle Leader applies pressure to the back of the neck working with your dog's natural relaxation instinct with an amazing calming effect. Also, dogs have a natural 'opposition reflex' - if you push against them, they push back, and if you pull on them, they pull back. Any collar that puts pressure at the front of the throat actually works against you by increasing the dog's instinct to pull forward. Since the Gentle Leader applies gentle pressure at the back of the neck, your dog instinctively pulls back, not forward. This means an end to leash pulling forever.

Why the Gentle Leader is the Best.

  • Steer the nose - steer the body. With the Gentle Leader you direct the dog's nose and the entire head, (not just the neck), and his body naturally follows.
  • Mind over matter - the psychological edge. Even more significant than simply controlling your dog's head and body, the Gentle Leader has a tremendous impact on the way your dog thinks. Because it works with his instincts to tell him that you are 'leader of the pack', his whole way of relating to you and other family members changes. Gentle Leader also has a calming effect on nervous, fearful, or overactive dogs.
  • No pain is your dog's gain. When faced with problem behavior, or lack of control, many have used traditional choke chains, prong collars, and no-pull harnesses. These products all work through various degrees of pain.

The Social Structure of Dogs.

Dogs and wolves naturally live in structured social groups or 'packs'. In nature, each animal knows where he fits within a relatively stable pack hierarchy - there is a 'top dog' or leader, and the others rank below. Since they don't hold elections, each animal's position in the pack is determined through a complex means of communication, including physical posturing, interaction, eye contact, vocalization, etc.

When a dog moves into your home he sees himself as a member of a new family pack and sizes up each other family member according to the 'Dog's Code of Conduct'. He views his posture, physical interaction, eye contact, etc., as signs of where he and you fit in the pack structure. You may be totally oblivious, but your dog has come to the conclusion that he is the 'leader'. The advantage of the Gentle Leader is that it allows you to communicate with your dog in several specific ways that he instinctively understands - in essence, it translates your requests into 'dog language', telling your dog that you are 'leader'.

Animal House has started to stock the (quick release) Gentle Leader® by Premier. The cost for all sizes is $18.98 plus tax. We consider it to be the best on the market and use it regularly both at home and in business.

More information can be found at Premier's web site for the Gentle Leader.

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NEUTERSOL - THE FIRST CHEMICAL STERILANT

In March of this year, the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) approved Neutersol, an injectable chemical sterilant for neutering male dogs between 3 and 10 months of age. (Testing is ongoing for older dogs and cats.)

In contrast to the standard surgical castration, which removes the testicles, Neutersol is a zinc and l-arginine-based compound that is injected into each testicle, causing them and the prostate to atrophy. The solution is considered 99.6 percent effective in achieving permanent sterilization.. Although the procedure does not require anesthesia as surgical removal of the testicles does, sedation is recommended (but not necessarily required) to keep pups from moving around. According to Dr. Don Polly, DVM, Director of Veterinary Science at Addison Biological Laboratory, makers of Neutersol, "The pain issue is in the minds of the humans."

Despite Neutersol's debut, some owners may still prefer the 'old fashioned' surgical sterilization because of the negatives associated with Neutersol. The chemical sterilization does not reduce testosterone production .... the hormone responsible for behavior problems such as roaming, marking, and aggression. According to the Humane Society, "Behavior problems are a hugh reason people surrender animals to shelters." Also, the drug may not protect against diseases associated with male hormones, such as prostate disease or testicular cancer.

As for the cost .... Addison Biological Laboratory suggests veterinarians charge the same fee for the injections as for surgical neutering, which varies regionally.

Before using chemical sterilization, please educate yourself on the pros and cons. There are more reasons for neutering than just to stop breeding and Neutersol does not address these issues.

For more information on Neutersol, visit:

Neutersol Homepage
Humane Society of the United States
Veterinary Practice News

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HOT SPOTS
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Hot Spots (moist eczema, moist pyoderma, summer sores) can seemingly appear spontaneously anywhere on the dog's body and the area involved can rapidly spread. This moist, raw skin disorder has a variety of causes but the most consistent factor is bacteria. Anything that irritates or breaks the skin can create the environment for bacterial contamination if the skin surface has just a bit of moisture on it. That moisture can be present from a recently given bath, swimming, being out in the rain, rolling in wet grass, or even from a slightly oozing sore that provides nutrients for bacteria. (For some reason, cats rarely acquire hot spots; dermatological problems in our feline friends are far less common than in the dog.)

Once initiated, the spot produces itchiness that makes the dog chew, lick, rub, or scratch, which further damages the skin, leading to a bigger area of infection ... and the cycle can go on rapidly and spread widely. There may or may not be hair loss, however, the skin will usually become red and inflamed looking and ozzes a clear or yellowish discharge. These 'spots' can occur very rapidly and progress to weepy, scabby wounds so quickly it's frightening.

The most common irritants are probably fleas, ticks, and allergies ... these cause the itching that lead to the skin infection. Other possible sources of irritation are bee stings, burrs, mats, mosquitoes, summer heat, etc. ... all can contribute to the initial irritation that can develop into a hot spot.

The best treatment is often prevention. Keep fleas and ticks off your dog; work with your vet if allergies are a problem; and keep your dog well groomed, especially in the hot season. Any dog that has matted, dirty hair or coat is at a greater risk of developing hot spots. Many owners will have their long or thick-furred dog shaved in the summer because it helps prevent the thick coat from covering any dampness on the surface of the skin. (By the fur covering any accumulated dampness, and not allowing evaporation, the wet skin surface is a perfect environment for bacterial growth and invasion of the skin surfaces.)

We recommend shaving any dog that is frequently wet - especially in the summer months. The dog may live by a body of water such as a creek or pond, or have a swimming pool in the back yard. By shaving the dog's coat, life is not only easier on the owners but hot spots are easier to see and may be prevented altogether.

If your dog does get a hot spot, the first step in treatment is to get the area dry. Bacteria like the hot moist environment of irritated skin. Using something to dry the sore makes it harder for bacteria to grow. Clipping the hair over and around a hot spot can help a great deal in allowing it to dry by exposing it to the air. Apply an astringent or antiseptic solution to the sore ... and keep the dog from further irritating the spot. (Apply a solution such as 'Apple Bitters'. I spray the Apple Bitters on a cotton ball and apply to the surrounding area. In some cases, an Elizabethan collar may be necessary.) If the hot spot does not respond or your dog is not cooperating, seek the help of your veterinarian. Small areas can become large areas very quickly!

For more information:

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EXPANDING YOUR PACK.

When expanding your pack, the best way to minimize conflict is to choose a dog of the opposite sex. Same-sex dogs that are similar in size and age are more likely to fight, and fighting between spayed female pairs tends to be the most difficult to resolve. Choose from a breed that is not known for dominance, fighting, or guarding.

When introducing the two dogs, experts stress the following:
  1. Meet on neutral territory, not at home. Remember the resident dog's territory includes all areas that it frequents on a regular basis.
  2. Plan a few fun activities for the dogs. Let them just have a good time just being with each other.
  3. Don't leave toys and rawhides lying around. The resident dog may be very possessive about these things.
  4. Feed the dogs separately. Have them sleep separately. It's important to watch how the two animals get along before just letting them loose on each other.
  5. Review obedience training with the resident dog and also with the new dog. This reinforces the owner's dominant status over all dogs.

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TO CRATE OR NOT TO CRATE
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Each year thousands of good pets are mistreated, abused, isolated, or abandoned by their owners because the owners were unable to deal with the behavioral problems of their pets.

Perhaps a large portion of these behavioral problems could have been alleviated with the proper use of a crate. Used correctly, a crate can be as valid a training tool as a leash or a collar. We, at Animal House, urge you to consider the use of crate training to give your dog the optimum opportunity of becoming a secure, loved, and devoted family member.

As seen by some pet owners: "It's like living in jail; It's cruel; I'd never put my dog in a cage."

As seen by the dog: "I love having a place of my own; I have my blanket, my favorite toys; nobody bothers me in here; it's all mine."

Being human beings - who value freedom - we may envision crates as inhumane. Considering your pet as an extension of your family, we do not wish to inflict unjust punishment upon our four-legged 'child'. Ask yourself, however, if you would raise a child without a playpen or a crib to sleep in?

On the other hand, imagine the crate from a different point of view. Dogs have a 'den' instinct. The crate helps to satisfy this instinct. You see it as closed in - your dog sees it as security. You see it as a 'cage' - your dog sees it as 'home'.

Reasons to use a crate:

  • Housetraining your dog. The crate takes advantage of the natural tendency of your dog to keep its sleeping area clean.
  • Protect your dog. The crate prevents your dog from getting into trouble by chewing and eating hazardous things.
  • Protect your property. A crate is an economical investment compared to the cost of replacing furniture and other belongings your new dog can destroy.
  • Curb and prevent separation anxiety. The crate teaches your dog to spend time alone.
  • Introduce chew toys. A dog engrossed in chewing a toy will stay out of mischief.
  • Give a timeout. Timeouts allow your dog to regain its composure so it can interact appropriately with the family.
  • Travel Safely. A crate is one of the best ways to ensure that your dog will travel safely. If you are away overnight with your dog keep it in a crate to prevent damage.
  • Provide security. Crates provide your dog with its own quiet place to hang out - especially important if you have a busy household. If you have children, teach them not to bother your dog while it is inside the crate - it's the dog's quiet time.
  • Confinement. Create an area to confine your dog at those times when its curiosity can be detrimental such as getting underfoot at meal time, during family activities, or when you have guests.


OK ... So you're convinced. What's next? Well, there are things to take into consideration ... things that books are written about. Since we do not have the room here, nor could we say it any better, we have provided a few links below.

Remember, we want our pets to be part of our family and to show appropriate behavior. The dog wants to please. A dog crate can help to develop the bond and relationship that both desire.


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BRUSHING & COMBING YOUR DOG.
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Do not underestimate the value of a good brushing .... brushing & combing your dog's coat helps to keep it tangle-free, remove undercoat, dirt, and dead skin, distribute oils, and increase blood circulation - all important for healthy skin and hair growth.

When we speak with customers about the importance of brushing and combing their pet between grooming appointments, we try to have the customer look at the issue from a different perspective. How does it feel when you have your hair brushed? How would it feel if your hair were not brushed for a period of time? How would it feel if the person brushing/combing your hair kept pulling or causing pain? Now take all of these sensations and distribute them over your entire body and maybe you can imagine how your pet feels.

The following are some things to keep in mind:
  1. Match the brush to your dog's coat type. If you have a problem determining this, please do not hesitate to ask any Animal House associate for guidance. We do have definite opinions on the subject.
  2. Spray on a coat conditioner such as mink oil before brushing to help loosen knots and tangles in long coats and to help with static.
  3. Brush systematically and develop a brushing pattern ... and use it every time. You won't lose your place or miss a spot, and your dog will learn what to expect.
  4. Brush the entire coat down to the skin, but do not brush the skin. Scraping the brush against your dog's skin can cause 'brush burn' - irritated red skin that may require veterinary attention. Brush gently on tender areas, such as the tummy and the inside of legs.
  5. Concentrate on one section and one layer of the coat at a time. Part the coat by pushing it back with one hand and brushing the hair down a little at a time with the other. Use quick deep strokes. If you need a demonstration of this brushing method, please do not hesitate to ask on your next visit to Animal House.
  6. Take your time. Brushing out a coat can be hard work. You may even want to break the task up into several sessions. Divide the dog into fourths or halves and do a different section each time.
  7. Comb the 'entire' coat after brushing to remove tangles and knots. Never, never pull or yank on tangles. Also, the rule of thumb for cutting out a tangle/mat is this: hold the mat between two fingers (index and middle) at the first/second joint area, placing the fingers between the mat and the dog's skin. Cut the hair on the mat side, never the skin side. If the finger test cannot be done, the mat should be shaved rather than cut out.
    When we have a customer scoff at the idea that their dog had matts ("We brush our dog!"), we ask them if they also combed their dog. Nothing brings reality home better than to run a comb through the coat that was just brushed to see the tangles still in the coat. These tangles turn into matts! If matts are left go too long, the coat must be stripped or shaved. This can be as short as a month's time for Bichon's, Wheatens, and some Shih Tzu's.
  8. Clip matted coats and let them grow out again. Spare your dog the pain and irritation of dematting. Also, nothing will turn a dog mean towards grooming faster than to put it through an unpleasant experience. Put yourself in the dog's shoes ... how would you feel?
  9. Praise and reward your dog! This is supposed to be a pleasant and rewarding experience.

Besides the obvious benefit to the dog, a brushing session can also be mutually rewarding for both pet and owner. How about taking into account the bonding experience and the genuine exchange of affection and mutual respect that takes place between the participants. If done correctly, the grooming session can be used as quality time making the experience fun and pleasant for all.

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PET GROOMING vs SHOW GROOMING
by Sharon Janes, Animal House & Company, Inc.

This topic has long been a pet peeve of ours ... and with the holiday season upon us, now may be a good time to discuss the subject. Pet grooming is not show grooming and show grooming is not pet grooming. There is a difference!

The staff at Animal House has always maintained that we are 'Pet Groomers'. We have had incidences where individuals, naively bring pictures of show clips in for us to see, asking, "Can you make my dog look like this?"

Besides the obvious response (No), often show grooming is simply not achievable. Just because your dog is pure bred does not mean it has inherited the genes for a 'show quality' coat. While a skilled groomer can sometimes sculpt hair in a way that makes a poor specimen look like a champion, owners should not expect the average pet to emerge from the grooming shop looking like the dogs in the dog shows. (Interesting side note: We have a higher number of 'picture showing' after major dog shows).

Even if a show coat is achievable, it is probably not practical. The time involved in maintenance of a show coat is often underestimated by pet owners. A show coat requires much more than a monthly visit to the groomer .... long coated breeds need hours of daily grooming and many show dogs spend their lives wrapped in rags. During their show career, they are never allowed to romp or play because appearance of their coat is a priority.

It is possible to maintain a beautiful, reasonable length coat, if you are willing to commit to a regular regimen of brushing, and combing at home and frequent visits to the groomer. Owners who skip the daily brushing/combing or let months pass before seeking grooming services will find that the pet often has unredeemable mats and tangles.

First ask yourself, "Is my dog a show dog". (Notice I did not say 'show quality'). If the answer is 'NO', there is little to decide. Your dog should have a pet clip. Now, please understand, I am not telling you that you do not have the option of a 'show clip', however, very few people understand the amount of work that show grooming entails. Also, why would you want to put your pet through the rigors of a daily grooming regime? (... Only to have your dog hate you, the brush, and the whole grooming process.)

Now ask yourself, "What is my life style?" Do you live in the woods? In an apartment? Does your dog like to play outside a lot? Have the run of a field or a creek? Are you able to brush your dog out in between groomings? Do you have the dedication and discipline to keep a coat combed out and matt free? Are you able to keep up with shedding and undercoat? Do you have the time and/or the inclination? How much money can you commit to your pet's appearance?

If you answer these questions honestly, you start to see that a pet clip suited to your dog's individual lifestyle is a much better choice than a pseudo-show clip. Discuss you lifestyle with the groomers at Animal House and we will be glad to recommend a clip just for your pet.

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NEUTERING A MALE DOG IS NOT THE SAME AS A VASECTOMY PERFORMED ON A MAN.
This article was taken from No More Myths, Real Facts to Answer Common Misbeliefs About Pet Problems by Stefanie Schwartz, DVM.

The vasectomy is not useful in veterinary medicine because the reasons for rendering a male dog infertile are not the only concerns. Neutering, also called castration, is the surgical removal of both testicles, rather than cutting off the supply of sperm, as with a vasectomy. Neutering effectively prevents the birth of unwanted litters and takes care of many sex hormones produced by the testicles.

Fighting, masturbation, roaming, and inappropriate urination often decrease (but are not necessarily eliminated) by neutering the intact male. Testosterone-responsive tumors, among them tumors of the prostate, are significantly reduced or prevented by castration. Infections of the urogenital tract can be difficult if not impossible to eradicate even with the most appropriate antibiotics unless and until the dog is neutered.

Vasectomy alone simply does not apply in veterinary medicine. This surgery fails to accomplish the goals that castration meets. The male dog is not embarrassed by the absence of testicles and will not suffer any type of social humiliation.

Concerned pet owners must be careful not to confuse what is best for their pet's long-term health and happiness with issues that matter only in terms of human sexuality.

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WHO'S IN CHARGE HERE?
Dominance Aggression.

by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Dominance aggression is a potentially dangerous behavior disorder rooted in a struggle for control. It is manifested by out-of-context aggressive behaviors in dogs directed towards people. These behaviors include lunging, growling, snapping, and biting. Such aggression tends to happen more in the 'alpha wanna-be dogs' rather than true dominant dogs. The behavior is often triggered by fear, conflict, and living in an unstable hierarchy. The dog feels the need to challenge owners in order to obtain or maintain social control.

Canine dominance aggression typically develops at social maturity, which occurs between 18 and 36 months of age. Although most dominantly aggressive dogs are male, this condition can occur in females, often at a younger age (8 weeks to 8 months). Dominance aggression is not controlled by hormones, but the presence of androgens, including testosterone, or the lack of estrogen during sexual and social development. Some breeds, especially working dogs, such as those bred to guard and herd, may be genetically predisposed to the behavior. The fact that dominance aggression occurs at social maturity suggests that owners may not necessarily cause the problem.

Dogs enter into a pack-like relationship with their owners," says Dr. Alice Moon-Fanelli, Ph.D. Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist and Assistant Professor of Animal Behavior at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine. "A dog with a strong desire to push to the top of the social group interprets kind owners as 'weak' and takes advantage of them to increase its status.

Showering a dog with affection, unearned treats and freedom of the house may reinforce this behavior because he starts to view himself as higher than his owners."

Typical provocative situations include:
  • Having its feet handled or being lifted off the ground.
  • Having it's muzzle, face, or head touched.
  • Verbal or physical discipline.
  • Disturbing the dog while it is sleeping or resting.
  • Pulling a dogs leash to correct it.
  • Reaching over the dogs head to attach a leash.
  • Reaching for its collar.
  • Grooming.
  • Hugging the dog.

A dog may display some or all of the following behavior:
  • Demands to be petted whenever it chooses.
  • Jumping up.
  • Mounting people.
  • Uses its body to block and control its owner's movements.
  • Rarely displays submissive posture, such as lying on its back.
  • Guards its food bowl, toys, resting areas, preferred family members, and territories.
  • Steals food or other items in front of the owner.
  • Maintains prolonged eye stares with the owner.

Before making a diagnosis of dominance aggression, see your veterinarian to rule out any medical causes for the behavior. Once medical reasons are ruled out, a diagnosis is based on the recurring presence of the atypical aggressive behaviors described above. Also, the word dominant should not be used to describe a dog that is merely assertive, confident, or pushy. A dog can be pushy or assertive without being dominantly aggressive.

"The two ways to convert your canine bully into a buddy: Avoid confrontations that will only escalate the aggression and ensure he earns every valued resource by obeying your commands," Dr. Moon-Fanelli says. "Aim for slow but steady progress. On average, owner-directed aggression may take two months or longer to curb, depending on the owner's and dog's willingness to comply."



EXPERTS OFFER THESE TREATMENTS FOR DOMINANCE AGGRESSION:
  • Avoid all circumstance known to provoke the dog. Give your dog time outs for 30 - 60 minutes when needed. When you let it out, ignore it to establish your higher status.
  • Start a passive behavior modification program ensuring that 'nothing in life is free'. You determine when you put the food bowl down and when you pick it up. You set the time for playing with toys and when game time ends. Passive behavior modification also involves spontaneously praising or rewarding a dog whenever it exhibits desirable behavior and ignoring the dog when it exhibits undesirable behavior.
  • Neuter your dog. About 25% of dogs displaying dominance aggression show up to 90% levels of improvement after being neutered.
  • Work your dog. Give it a healthy, invigorating outlet for its energy.
  • Instill daily, mini-obedience training. Use reward-based training and make your dog earn every food treat by complying with basic commands. Learn to use a head collar (see September's Newsletter for an article on head collars).
  • Ignore demands or pleas for attention. Owners should initiate and end all interactions with their dogs.
  • Stop roughhousing play.
  • Serve healthy food. Select a dog food that is low in protein and free of artificial preservatives.
  • Don't leave dogs unsupervised with young children.
  • Keep your dog floor-bound. Dogs view sofas, beds, and chairs as prized real estate. Provide it with it's own bed on the floor.
  • Consider anxiety medication, in extreme cases, such as Prozac or another anti-anxiety medication. The goal is to use these drugs as a temporary bridge until the dog's behavior can be improved.

Behavior modification is not obedience training. Behavior modification, while sharing many of the same similarities with obedience training, differs in its premise ... the reason for the training is different. A behavior modification program not only teaches (or reinforces) a 'sit' command, it also teaches the dog to relax and to be receptive to changing its behavior.

For more information on canine dominance aggression and behavior modification programs, visit the following sites:


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POISON SAFETY TIPS FOR THE HOLIDAYS
by Sharon Janes, President, Animal House & Company, Inc.

Whether you are decorating for the season, preparing for a party, or heading to bed after a day of festivities, make sure the last thing you do is look around for toxic items that your pet could get into. Close doors or use baby gates to block access; put items away or out of your pet's reach. Keep your pet safe from the following:
  • Alcohol: Move unfinished drinks and the punch bowl where you pet can't get at them. An interesting tid-bit I came across while researching this subject is how harmful alcohol actually is to an animal. A thirty-pound dog would be considered 'under the influence' with just 2 tablespoons of whiskey. Two teaspoons would make a five-pound cat comatose and a tablespoon could kill.
  • Bones and other scraps from meat and fatty foods.
  • Foods served as snacks or in gift baskets: chocolate, nuts, coffee, and heavily salted meats and cheeses.
  • Plants: holly and mistletoe berries, if ingested may cause gastrointestinal upset. Poinsettias are generally over-rated in toxicity, but if ingested, can be irritating to the mouth and stomach, and may cause mild vomiting or nausea.
  • Items your dog could puncture that contain toxins: batteries, toiletry gift items, arts & craft items.
  • Liquid & dry potpourri.
  • Water in the tree stand: Fertilizers and other chemical treatments used on the tree can leach into the water and cause stomach upset. Stagnant tree water can be breeding grounds for bacteria, which can also lead to vomiting, nausea, and diarrhea.
  • Candles: Never, never leave candles unattended, especially around animals (or children).
  • Ornaments, hooks, ribbon, rubber bands, angel hair, and tinsel icicles if swallowed may lead to serious and possibly fatal digestive problems.
  • Other winter hazards: Anti-freeze in very small amounts is extremely dangerous. Ice melting products can be irritating to skin and mouth. Depending on the actual ingredient of the ice melt and the quantity, signs of ingestion would include excessive drooling, depression, vomiting or even electrolyte imbalance.

Always be prepared !!! Your pet may become poisoned in spite of your best efforts to prevent it. Keep the telephone numbers for your vet, a local emergency animal hospital, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center in a convenient location. If you suspect that your pet has ingested something poisonous, seek medical attention immediately.

For more information:
  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 1-888-426-4435.
  • St. Hubert's Animal Welfare Center Pet Poison Hotline, 1-800-565-5719

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